Catarina Riccabona

Catarina Riccabona weaves wonderful, colourful, slubby linen textiles, the kind that call out to be stroked and explored. The cloth is handwoven in small, limited editions with different weave structures and combinations which keep your eyes gently dancing over the fabric. Catarina also has an admirable ecological philosophy, using a lot of undyed, plant-dyed and recycled yarns. She was kind enough to answer a few questions about her work below.

Tell us a little about what you make? I’m a textile designer and hand-weaver. I make functional pieces such as throws and blankets, sometimes also scarves and cushions. But my focus is definitely on throws and blankets. What materials do you use? Linen is practically in every piece I make (there are only a few exceptions). I love to work with it and I love the aesthetic of linen. It tends to become more beautiful with use. My practice is based on an ecological philosophy, so I use a lot of undyed yarns like linen, hemp, wool and alpaca (from the UK and Europe) as well as plant-dyed, second-hand and recycled yarns for colour. What techniques do you use and why? Weaving by hand (as opposed to working with a mill) gives me a great deal of flexibility in terms of weave structure combinations, irregularity and yarn types. I use this fact in my throws that could be described as whole compositions rather than repeat designs. One of my favourite techniques is block threading. During weaving you can separate out certain groups of threads and make them do something different to the rest. I like to play with this kind of juxtaposition of colour and texture. What/who inspires you to make your work? I admire the quality and feel of many tribal textiles. That trace that’s left from the making process by the human hand… small variations, irregularities, imperfections. There is something honest or even innocent about such pieces. Sometimes they seem to have been made quite intuitively. For me it’s a kind of timeless beauty that is also warming and comforting. How/where do you sell your pieces? I sell directly from my studio at Cockpit Arts, Deptford, (by appointment) or during our twice yearly Open Studios. I also sell through places like The New Craftsmen and other independent shops/galleries. From SS15 Liberty will have my work too. And I work to commission. Please recommend a good book? ‘Colour: Travels Through the Paintbox’, by Victoria Finlay. My first year tutor at Central Saint Martins who taught us colour theory recommended it. Each chapter is dedicated to one colour and lots of peculiar facts about it… Any plans/ideas for the future? From 26th to 28th February I will be in residence at ‘Atelier’ run by The New Craftsmen. During London Craft Week I will be weaving in St James’ church (Piccadilly, 7th & 8th May)! I also look forward to the opening of Field Gallery in Bruton, Somerset, in April 2015. In the more distant future there could be a very exciting collaboration project on the horizon but I’m afraid it’s much too early to say anything about it.

Thank you Catarina!

The Quilts of Gee's Bend

This week I'd like to share one of my all-time favourite books. It's not new or Modern, but it's bloody good and that's all that counts. The Quilts of Gee's Bend: Masterpieces from a Lost Place, was published in 2002 in association with an exhibition at the Museum of Fine Arts in Houston. It profiles the women of Gee's Bend - a small, remote community in Alabama who create incredible quilt masterpieces, carrying forward the fine old tradition of making textiles for the home and family. The designs reference American quilt traditions, however these pieces differ in that they are composed boldly and improvisationally, in geometries that transform recycled work, clothes, dresses, feed sacks and fabric remnants. The geographical isolation of these women enforces a freedom and originality on them that leads to extraordinary combinations of colour and composition. I wonder if this kind of spontaneous originality is even still possible now that we all have the internet in our homes and everybody can see the same things, all of the time? We are having a major book clear-out at the moment, as we have far too many for our small house, but this is one book that I will never part with. If you are interested in textiles and don't already have The Quilts of Gee's Bend, I thoroughly recommend adding it to your library.

Shibori Workshop

I'm not sure when it became proper practice to refer to hippie tie dye as the rather more fancy sounding shibori, but that I will do. In truth, I think there is a subtle difference; 60's-inspired tie dye tends to be quicker with more immediate and colourful results, whereas shibori is controlled, and looks directly to intricate (and ancient) Japanese binding, stitching and folding techniques. Shibori is often dyed using natural indigo - but by no means always - and the boundaries between the two techniques are definitely faint and blurry! These photographs are from a shibori workshop I went to in the summer, led by textile artist Janice Gunner at the beautiful Cowslip Workshops in Launceston, Cornwall. Cowslip is based in several converted barns on a dairy farm, so while you are at work, you can hear the cows mooing and enjoy the view across bright green fields. I spent two days making samples and trying out different techniques. First stitching, twisting and tying the cloth to create various resist patterns, before immersing the fabrics in buckets of deep indigo and lighter woad. When the indigo-dyed fabric is exposed to air, it is transformed from iridescent scarab beetle green to that perfect shade of deep, deep blue. It is almost a magical process and the reason many people get hooked on blues.

Polka Dot Club

I've had my eye on Jennifer Murphy's beautiful handmade bears for a while and have been thinking of making Eli, a tiny stuffed elephant from one of her downloadable patterns. I contacted Jennifer to ask a few questions about her work and to find out more about the POLKA DOT CLUB.

How did you start making bears and soft toys? My mom has always been a collector of things and in the 1980's she was especially drawn to old mohair teddy bears. At the time selling, they were selling for thousands of dollars, so she decided to try making them herself. The only place we could find the mohair fur that was similar to the old toys was in lining of vintage jackets. We would drive all over southern michigan to every thrift store gathering old jackets and ripping them up. This all started when I was 7 years old, and by the time I was 11 she had quit her conventional hospital job and was traveling all over the country selling her amazing teddy bears to collectors. An artist teddy bear movement was happening and there were huge shows popping up all over the world. Convention centres were filled with people making and buying teddy bears. It was a strange and amazing way to grow up. My mom built a business and made it work. I was inspired. I started out making bears from the scraps she couldn't use when I was 11. I would put a few of my bears out on her table at shows and began to draw collectors of my own. I put myself through college, making and selling bears, and in 2001 I launched my website www.jmurphybears.com. I've been making mohair and wool toys for what feels like my whole life. It's a strange and amazing thing to be a second generation teddy bear maker. What is the POLKA DOT CLUB? The POLKA DOT CLUB 
is a collection of heritage 
toys. Each bear is made by hand in Minneapolis, using the same materials and techniques employed by the finest toy makers over 100 years ago. The first teddy bears were designed and made out of mohair and it’s still the best fabric available today. Our mohair is woven on one of only a few looms left in the world. The mohair fibers (sheared from the mohair goat) are looped onto cotton backing, creating a 100% natural fur that’s durable, beautiful, and totally unique but because of its expense and rarity almost no toy makers use it today. Mohair ages very differently than the contemporary alternative - synthetic plush. It ages with dignity, showing it’s years gracefully and begs to be passed on from one generation to the next. Inside all PDC bears is 100% cotton stuffing and the Classic Bears are disk jointed allowing the head and limbs to turn freely. I hand embroider each nose one at a time with love and care. Every step, process, material, and fiber is chosen specifically with your child in mind - It's not easy or fast but every PDC bear is made with intention and love. What is the difference between the POLKA DOT CLUB and your own Jennifer Murphy Bears? I started making and selling my bears when I was so young, it was a business that slowly turned into a living before my eyes. I sold one-of-a-kind mohair pieces that looked like toys but were made for adult collectors to plop on a shelf and admire. I was basically making toys that weren't meant for kids, which just seemed wrong given my inspiration was old toys that were played with to the point of becoming hairless and deformed with love. No one was making mohair toys for kids today. Even Steiff, the first and finest maker of teddy bears and animals was making stuffed animals "not intended as a toys". I wanted kids besides my own, to have these objects, and have the pleasure of passing them on to their children. It has so much to do with those bears my mother and I admired when we began this whole thing in the 80's. Bears that were over 100 years old, and played with for generations. I wanted to start that again. How do your kits work? I'd love to make one - are they difficult? I'm really connected to the materials I use - mohair specifically is just so beautiful. I want everyone to be converted to it's magic so I've made patterns and supplies available on my website. While none of the patterns are easy, the instructions are incredibly detailed. There are videos and so many photos, in the 5 years they've been available, I think I had one person have an question about how to do something. That feels like a victory. Basically, there are the patterns and then there are the supplies needed to make those patterns. You can buy one or both. I think it's easier to make the project with the materials it was drafted for, but wool felt or even cotton would work too. Skip the synthetic fur though, the backings are just too thick for these patterns. I think it would just be an exercise in frustration. Where can people buy your bears? Both of my websites have online shops. In the JMurphyBears shop, there are patterns, supplies, and occasionally I update it with one of a kind and limited edition teddy bears and animals for collectors. I announce the date and time for the updates on my social media feeds and my mailing list. As for the POLKA DOT CLUB, there are a handful of pieces I make available all the time like the PDC Classic Bear, but I'm always working on new things. For instance this spring I made a Rolypoly linen Rabbit which was only available for a short time. I like to switch things up in the studio, it keeps the whole process fresh for me while bringing new designs in to the mix. What are your plans for the future? There are so many challenges in starting this new business. The POLKA DOT CLUB is now only a year old, though it took about 4 years to nail down all the details and legal issues not to mention the millions of little details I couldn't ignore before I was ready to launch it out into the world last summer. I feel like I'm just beginning to get my footing, but I have plans for new designs and pairing with other designers and artists for collaborations. Most importantly, I plan to spend this summer with my two little kids, the oldest of which heads to kindergarten this fall. How time flies.

Thank you Jennifer! Please visit www.polkadotclub.com to find out more.

Maryanne Moodie

There are so many amazing wall hangings around at the moment. I love that this craft is enjoying a resurgence as I've always been partial to a bit of fibre art - the weirder the better for me. I caught up with rising star of the scene Maryanne Moodie to find out more about her work.

How and when did you start weaving? About three years ago. I was searching for a craft to pursue and when I found weaving, something inside me just turned on. I was hooked! What materials do you use and how long does each piece take? I use all types of yarn and textiles in my work. I use lots of vintage yarn as well as small batch, hand spun and hand dyed wool. I also use handmade beads sometimes, as well as things I find at the hardware store. What do you enjoy most about the process? I enjoy working closely with my clients to ensure I create a piece that is wholly them. It will be a piece that has the privilege of hanging in their personal private spaces. I want to create a piece that will bring good vibrations into their homes and their lives. Where do you sell? I sell only via commission at the moment. I feel so lucky that I can enjoy the process in an individual way that is different for each client. Do you have any plans for the future? Yes, I am setting up weaving classes in NYC and Australia and I am commissioning a carpenter to help me put beginners weaving kits together. I am also filming an online weaving course that I hope to have live in April/ May. All very exciting!

To see more of Maryanne's work, please visit her website or follow her on Instagram.

Shelter

Karie Reinertson makes beautiful handcrafted bags under the name of Shelter. I first saw her work on Madesmith and was intrigued to find out more.

How did Shelter begin? Shelter started in the Green Mountains of Vermont when a couple of generalists got together and wanted to collaborate. Soon after, we moved to Asheville, NC, and have been focusing on canvas and leather bags, alongside home and cabin design/build. My favourite combo! Do you make everything yourself? For the most part, yes. When we have larger orders, we work with a worker-owned sewing cooperative here in North Carolina to help with certain aspects of the bags. What is your favourite part of the making process? Designing is my favorite part of the process. The transition from idea to tangible piece is an incredibly satisfying process. I also love working with leather. It feels like a collaboration - leather is a beautiful, sturdy, and challenging material to work with and it deserves time and respect. What materials do you use? I use the highest quality canvas, waxed canvas, leather, and hardware I can find. I also use ikats and African textiles. I like to mix different patterns and textures together. Where are you stocked? Boutiques in the US and abroad, and online through my own web shop. Exclusive collaboration pieces can be found online at Madesmith. Do you have any exciting plans for the future? Yes, super exciting plans! Soon I will be offering a collection of one of a kind and bespoke leather inlaid handbags. More on that soon... To follow that journey, please follow us on Instagram at @shelterprotectsyou and @theceremonycollection

Thank you Karie!

Photographs by Jen Altman for Madesmith

Rose Choules Moccasin Atelier

I recently made my own pair of moccasins and I'm delighted with the results. I've had them on my feet more or less all day, everyday, ever since I made them! I attended a one-day moccasin making workshop with Rose Choules at her studio in Cornwall, and it was fascinating learning how to cut and sew a very simple, yet beautiful pair of shoes in just one day. The workshop began with all the students (myself and two friends) choosing our materials. I opted for a very classic (and some might say boring!) tan suede while my friends were far more adventurous and used navy/bottle green and chocolate/burgundy colour combinations. Rose also showed us her amazing selection of luxury leathers, including wild antelope suede, Devon shearling and smoked moose hide from Saskatchewan, Canada. Using templates to perfectly fit our feet, we cut out pattern pieces and punched them with tiny holes that would later be stitched through. We worked to a cosy low-top moccasin slipper pattern that is lined with fleece, which Rose has developed herself. My favourite part was stitching the moccasins together using beeswax-coated thread and cutting my own spiral shoelaces from leather. The saddle stitch used to join the vamp to the sole was very satisfying (a good thing as I made a little mistake and had to redo this part several times!) Mistake rectified and moccasins stitched together, the final stage was to shape them on the last, trim the suede and tie the laces. It feels good knowing how to make a simple pair of shoes and when this pair eventually wear out, I'll definitely make another. Rose is running one and two day mocassin making courses in London and Cornwall throughout the year, so if anyone fancies a go, please contact her for more details. The one day course is perfect for beginners, while the two day course is a little more advanced and aimed at people already working in the footwear industry. If you'd like to see more pictures of Rose's fascinating studio, click here to see the tour I featured last year.

Folk Fibers

I am always impressed by small businesses who concentrate on making beautiful products, simply and well. Folk Fibers is one such company and they make exquisite quilts, all stitched entirely by hand and coloured using natural dyes.

Maura Grace Ambrose founded the company in Austin, Texas. She organically grows, harvests, and forages for natural dyes in the local area, focusing on substantive or direct dyes, such as indigo, cochineal, walnut hulls, and onion skins. "I favour substantive dyes because colourfast fabrics are achieved without the aid of chemical additives, known as a mordants. Without the need for mordants the dying process becomes simplified and enjoyable, as well as kind to the environment."

Often Maura patchworks the dyed fabric together with other materials, both vintage and new. She is committed to using 100% natural fibres and chooses solid colours for their timeless appeal. Personally I think the indigo wholecloth designs with white shashiko stitching above, are some of the most beautiful quilts I have seen. As Maura explains, "my passion for quilting is rooted in the love and beauty achieved from hand stitching. The art of hand quilting does take more time, but the results are greater and more valuable than a manufactured quilt." Each finished piece also comes in a handmade cedar box, which is almost (but not quite!) as good as the completed quilts themselves.

To see more of Folk Fibers inspiring work, you can visit their online shop and website.

A Mouthful of Milk Teeth

It's not surprising that I love this new collection by Lu Flux called A Mouthful of Milk Teeth. It combines patchwork, kid's clothes and knitwear - three of my favourite things. Each piece is made to order from a mix of cotton and wool yarns and the items have great names, like Gummy Trousers, Flossy Skirt and Molar Helmet. Hmm, it's all a lot more fun than going to the dentist.

P.S. I like their Bear dress for grown ups too.

Natural Dyeing

I've always been fascinated by natural dyeing as I love the idea of extracting colour from roots, berries, barks, leaves and wood. Lately I've seen a whole host of designers using natural dyes in their work. The potential of materials like saffron, pomegranate, woad and of course, the wonderful indigo-giving indigofera, are being rediscovered and used in contemporary ways.

A couple of projects that have caught my eye are Kirstie Van Noort's Color Collision, which sees ceramics dyed with red cabbage and then soaked in various liquids with different pH levels. The result is beautiful, surprising, and one-of-a-kind pieces steeped in colour. Merel Karhof also works with natural dye recipes and has created a wind powered knitting machine to weave scarves from her rainbow of yarns.

Meanwhile, Elodie Gobin’s Botanic Color Collection is an ongoing research project, exploring organic dyes and natural colour processes, using waste fruit and vegetables rejected by the food industry. Her most recent collection employs pigments extracted exclusively from beetroot and red cabbage and was used to dye the handles on a set of cutlery. Gobin’s colours are dependent on the seasonal availability of her sources, and she hopes that by adopting 100% natural dyes, people could become reconnected with this cycle.

New Friends

These weavings are by New Friends and are made using hand dyed merino wool, metallics and raffia. New Friends are Alexandra Segreti and Kelly Rakowski, who create weavings, textiles and homewares in New York City and Philadelphia. The duo recently spent a week in the Matter showroom in New York, producing a super-sized weave on a custom, site-specific loom. By far the largest piece they've ever produced, it stretches from floor to ceiling and measures a mighty 8ft tall. The weaving is on display at the Matter showroom now.

Fog Linen Work

One of my favourite product lines Fog Linen Work has just opened an online shop with international shipping. This could spell bad news for someone like me! The site sells the most comprehensive collection of Fog Linen items outside of Japan, including several new pieces designed exclusively for the site. There are linen napkins, tablecloths, bedsheets and serving trays, as well as a small range of women's clothing and kid's items. I love the Fog Linen motto: live with linen - every day. Founder Yumiko Sekine started her first business in 1993 importing used books and homewares from Europe and America to Japan. In her search for more products, she looked for affordable every day linens that she had used during her childhood. She visited Lithuania, a major producer of flax, which is later spun into linen, and was disappointed to find that there were no linen products designed for daily use available in the shops there. This led Sekine to have her own designs made and now after ten years, Fog Linen Work produces a large range of honest, beautiful and long-lasting products designed for everyday use.

Patchwork by Place de Bleu

Ethical inspiration meets scandinavian style in Place de Bleu's patchwork accessories made with offcuts from Danish manufacturer Kvadrat. Cushions, ipad covers, blankets and colourful children's bunting are all handmade in Copenhagen by a small team of immigrant workers. The company celebrates the unique way in which exceptional skills have been passed down globally through generations of women and then brought together in their workshop. With this in mind, Place de Bleu shot their most recent catalogue in their workers' own homes, juxtaposing their signature modern graphic style with the makers' traditional interiors.

Pala Mino

I am crazy about this new kids' label Pala Mino! Designer Louise Coughlan, used to make costumes for Giffords Circus and now she designs magical children's clothes. The pieces are all beautifully handcrafted using vintage fabrics and trims from Louise's treasured textile stash. The styles are playful and fun, yet also timeless. They are pieces to be treasured for a lifetime, as they amplify the carefree nature of childhood. I interviewed Louise to find out more: What inspired you to start Pala Mino? I work freelance as a costume maker and I get most of my work from industry costumiers. In addition to the work room, they also have a large warehouse and I like to look through the rails at lunchtimes. I am always drawn to the beautiful fabrics and shapes of the children's section, so I started taking patterns of my favourite pieces and it kind of went from there. What is the inspiration behind the current collection? I'm inspired by costume, film, pattern, shape, colour and fabric. I love films that transport you using pace, landscape and music. I often think of characters and imagine what their children might wear, Jane from Paris, Texas is a current favourite. I am influenced by my costume background but like to be inspired by a cinematic persona rather than a theatrical character. What materials do you use? Cotton, silk, wool, viscose. I prefer to use natural fabric. I have sourced vintage fabric through the years. I am usually drawn to print and/or colour. It's the same with trims and buttons. I have also taken clothing apart and re used it for small pieces like a collar, facing or piping. I am a sucker for a graphic print and get a kick out an unexpected colour combo. What is your favourite thing to do with your kids? Have a lazy morning in bed at the weekend. If we have no plans, there's nothing better than eating breakfast in bed. Then hanging out, reading, chatting, drawing, watching stuff on the laptop. It doesn't happen as much as I would like though, we always seem to be too busy. What is your favourite children's book? I think it is probably Diary of a Wimpy Kid. It was the first book my eldest son loved reading by himself, up until then he would only read short stories. Do you have any exciting plans for the future? Oh yeah, as long as I can keep making and being creative. At the moment I do all the making and dyeing myself, if it gets too much I already know very skilled people who can help out. The process is as important to me as the product, this is reflected in the price point but the garments are not throw away. I'm hoping that they will be cherished, well worn and handed down.

Louise can produce all the pieces in different sizes to order. Please don't hesitate to get in touch!

Beldi Rugs

Beldi is a Moroccan word meaning traditional, rural and natural. It is also the perfect name for a company which sources vintage Moroccan rugs. Each Beldi rug is unique - an authentic piece of folk art, traditionally hand-woven by a married woman after she has had children. She would usually work on it each day, with love and care, sometimes for as long as a year. The rugs are firmly rooted in the culture and landscape that produced them as they are also made from the wool of sheep that roam Morocco's Middle Atlas Mountains. I love the colour, pattern and wonky shapes of all the different rugs, some dating back as far as the 1940's and 50's. From the surprisingly contemporary looking designs of the Beni Ouarain and Azilal rugs, to the wildly colourful Boucherouite and Boujad rugs. I am also intrigued by the story of how they were made and the idea that each rug tells us a little about the woman who crafted it.

www.beldirugs.com

Kids: Misha & Puff

I am loving the new spring collection from Misha and Puff. It features shrunken sweaters, pixie hats and romper suits, all hand-knitted with two-tone organic cotton and silk yarn in a chunky seed stitch. The shapes are just right for playing in and the choice of yarn gives the pieces a modern edge. The collection is also very unisex, which I am all for.

Misha and Puff was founded in 2011 after owner Anna's baby son spent his first winter keeping warm while swaddled head-to-toe in her handmade knits. She then set to work on creating a collection of thoughtfully designed and handcrafted, long-lasting heirloom pieces. Each piece is hand-knitted in New England and designed to be purchased a little big then worn until just a tad too small. Perfect for ever-growing kids!

www.shop.misha-and-puff.com

Brook & Lyn

I am still hung up on wall hangings, so here are four new textile weavings from Mimi Jung of Brook & Lyn. Somewhat unusually, they combine palm tree bark with yarn and copper. I love the contrasts of colour and texture and would be delighted to see one hanging in a modern interior.

For a behind-the-scenes look at Mimi's weaving process, you can follow her on instagram @brookandlyn.

www.brookandlyn.com

Block Shop

While living in India studying Mughal miniature painting, Lily Stockman encountered The Chhipa's, a family of master printers based in Bagru. Enlisting the help of her sister Hopie, a Harvard business graduate, together they founded Block Shop. The company make beautiful hand printed scarves inspired by the minimalist aesthetic of the North American desert. Their textiles are printed one at a time with carved wooden blocks and natural vegetable dyes using the same techniques that the Chhipa family have used for 350 years.

www.blockshoptextiles.com

Art Dolls: Sarah Strachan

Sarah Strachan's dolls bring a smile to my face. Each doll is hand-made, completely unique and extremely stylish! Sarah studied sculpture and before having a family made creatures for Jim Henson’s creature shop in London. Now she lives in Devon making art dolls which are heirloom pieces to be treasured forever. Each doll takes hours to make, their limbs are wired so they are posable, their faces and sometimes even their clothes are hand-painted. I love their little outfits, which Sarah makes using vintage fabric and designer scraps. She also takes commissions – So if you have a favourite outfit, piece of fabric or style idea that you would like to be turned into a doll then you can contact Sarah and have your very own mini-me made.

www.sarahstrachan.com

Hooked Wool Drawings

I love a bit of textile art so these hooked wool drawings by Altoon Sultan are right up my street. These three pieces are part of a twenty-four part series in which linen is painted with egg tempera then stitched with hand-dyed wool. I find the contrast of the geometric forms on slubby linen combined with paint and embroidery intriguing. I particularly like the different layers of texture and the three-dimensional nature of the embroidery.

www.altoonsultan.com